Warning: This post shows creepy crawlies

After spending a couple of days on the Kinabatangan River we had one more activity planned before we left this area for Danum Valley. During dinner the night before this activity I mentioned it and one of the couples said, “Oh, we’ve been there … it’s interesting.” This wasn’t the most enthusiastic endorsement.

The Gomantong Cave is found in the district of Kinabatangan, within the Gomantong Forest Reserve Class IV. It’s the biggest cave and the chief producer of edible bird’s nest in Sabah. The novel, The Garden of Evening Mists, by Tan Twan Eng, mentioned these nests and before venturing to the cave I was curious about them.

From the outside everything looks fine.

After visiting I can honestly say I will never ever eat one. Our guide said when he was younger he ate the nests. Then when he started taking people on this tour he couldn’t stomach them anymore. So what’s the big turn off?

Even this snake is fleeing the cave.

The smell inside the cave is one thing. It reeks. But I have to say, besides the swiftlets that create these nests, there are two populations inside the caves that ruined the whole experience for me: cockroaches and bats! And I’m not talking about one or two. I’m talking about tons of them. Of course there are other creepy crawlies as well.

There is a wooden walkway that all visitors have to walk on. It feels like you are walking on carpet since it is covered in poop.

 

And don’t touch the handrails. Not only is it smothered in crap, but all types of bugs are crawling on them, mostly cockroaches. I’m getting grossed out just writing this post and may have to hop in the shower again. Everyone says when you visit don’t wear nice clothes. Now I know why.

However, the gross factor aside, the caves are quite interesting and I’m glad I saw them.

The edible nests are collected and harvested twice a year and the practice dates back approximately to the year 500. Licensed locals climb to the roof of the caves, using

One of the nests

ropes, bamboo poles, and rattan ladders to gather the nests. The collectors ensure that they only take the nests that the young swiftlets have deserted. The Birds’ Nest Ordinance and the Forest Enactment of 1968 protect this area and unlicensed collectors are fined. And a person is always inside the cave guarding it. The guards have to spend ten days at a time inside the caves. They are braver than me. I for one couldn’t wait to get back outside.

Fresh air again!

Travel Photo of the Day (June 11)

What do you think everyone is waiting for? Photo taken in Danum Valley, Malaysia.

Macaques Everywhere!

I’ve always loved monkeys. As a kid when I visited the zoo I wanted to head straight for the monkeys. I adore their antics and chatter. While in Malaysia we saw macaques everywhere. Each time the guide would say, “Oh, more macaques, let’s move on.” It reminded me when I was in Botswana and the guide would say, “Oh, more impalas, let’s move on.” Just for the record, I was thrilled to see impalas. They are beautiful creatures. But back to the macaques. I did my best to snap photos of these characters whenever I could.

Here they are at the Batu Caves:

Are you seeing double?

Along the Kinabatangan River

On the grounds of our lodge

Now I should note that these monkeys can be quite sneaky. Don’t leave anything outside  or they will steal it. Our guide kept referring to them as bandits. I kinda like that about them.

Travel Photo of the Day (June 10)

Photo taken as we left Mabul Island. 

Travel Photo of the Day (June 8)

Mabul Island at sunset.

Travel Photo of the Day (June 7)

Have fun exploring this weekend! Photo taken on Mabul Island.

The Falcon Pub

They’re back! For weeks I’ve ignore my weekly pub reviews, but if I want to visit all the pubs in London, I need to get serious. Last weekend, whilst wandering through Clapham we discovered The Falcon. I didn’t know this until after my visit, but it has the longest bar counter in the United Kingdom, according to the Guinness Book of Records. If I knew that I would have tried to get a better shot of the bar.

 

Even though I didn’t realize that the bar was so long, I was impressed by their selection of ales. Many pubs only have a few. This had more than a few and it took me some time to finally decide on my choice: Anthem by Bath Ales. In the past I’ve loved the beers by this brewery. I wouldn’t say I hated this one, but it wasn’t my favorite by Bath Ales. The Better Half sampled the Chocolate Stout. This was a superb beer and my hand was swatted away when I tried to switch glasses. It was worth a try.

We visited on a Saturday afternoon. It wasn’t overly crowded, but we had a difficult time finding a seat. We ended up sitting on a bench by the front door. While I enjoyed the interior of this pub, we didn’t linger long, so I am unable to review the food. However, during out brief stay I was impressed and I would go back. I give this pub 4 out of 5 stars. If I do end up there again and sample the food, I’ll let you know. As of now, there are many more pubs for me to visit. My work is never done.

Travel Photo of the Day (June 6)

Hello! Photo taken in Danum Valley, Malaysia.

I had to do it!

Today I woke up and realized that it’s Thursday. Where did this week go? And I still have a few deadlines before I can go to a pub on Friday night. Saying that, here’s a quick post about Malaysia and Sense and Sensibility.  What, you don’t remember Malaysia playing a role in the novel. You’re right it didn’t. But while I was on holiday I reread this book for my 50 year challenge. I don’t plan on reviewing the novel besides saying it’s one of my favorites by Austen. This was my second or third time reading it, but I’m sure I’ll associate it now with Malaysia since the views were amazing when I found the time to read.

I read bits and pieces of this in between river cruises on the Kinabatangan.

During my stay in Danum Valley, for almost an hour it was pouring out, giving me the opportunity to read.

In the early morning I sat on my private deck on Mabul Island to read.

Sometimes I was too distracted to read whilst on Mabul Island.

Fellow readers on the island.

And now I have a confession. Many of you know I’ve been on a book ban, which meant I couldn’t buy any books all this year.  Well, I only packed Sense and Sensibility for my trip. Normally I pack two or three and then don’t even get through one. So I thought I was being smart by only bringing one. Long story short, before boarding the plane for two seven hour flights I stopped in the bookshop and bought Kafka on the Shore. It was an emergency, after all. A week later, the Better Half took me to a couple of used bookstores for my birthday. It was wonderful. I’m not sure if I’ll implement the book ban again.

Travel Photo of the Day (June 5)

This photo is a tough one, and I’m guessing 99% of you have no idea what I’m trying to show you. You aren’t alone. When our guide used his laser pointer no one in the boat saw what he saw. This drove our guide insane, so eventually we all said we did. Later that night, during dinner, all six of us confessed that we hadn’t seen the Boa constrictor. Yes, behind all of the leaves is a Boa. When I got home I downloaded all of the photos and guess what, I finally saw it. Sort of. Our guide wasn’t playing with us. Now this makes me wonder, how many critters were out there that we couldn’t see. And how in the world did our guide spot this?

If you look just above the green dot you can see the snake.